Update.We made it to Isla off of Cancun yesterday afternoon around 4pm. We are currently tied up at a marina and have WIFI access and most importantly unlimited hot showers.

For those of you that read my last post and were concerned about an outbreak of cannibalism on the boat, the good news is that we are all still intact, the bad news is that Jaime was wishing at one point that we would kill her… more details below in my log.

Log entries

6/28/08

We finally left Caye Caulker and headed back up to Ambergris Caye. AC wasn’t so bad this time. No jet skis bombing by and we had a great linner (lunch/dinner) of cheese burgers in paradise at the Tackle Box Bar over the water. At around midnight we woke up to the sounds of fireworks. The island was celebrating a holiday for St. Peter the patron saint.

The next morning we prepared to leave the comfort of sailing behind Belize’s 185 mile barrier reef and head North but the cut through the reef was raging with large waves. Time for plan B. We headed back South past Caye Caulker to St. George’s Caye and it’s much larger pass and anchored for the night. Below is a quick video I took of dolphins on our way down

6/30/08

We had a few squalls last night. One ripped through at 43 knots (about 50mph) and ripped up our anchor from the grass it was in. Thankfully it reset after we drug back a little.

We left St. George’s Caye at 11:45am and headed for the pass. The weather was grey but looked better to the North where we needed to go. Once we left the nice confines of the reef a closely packed six foot choppy swell greeted us. The wind was coming E-NE which it diffcult to sail our course.

We motored sailed back and forth accross our course line and by 6pm had barely made it back accross from Ambergris Caye where we started the day before. Our plan to arrive the next morning and anchor at Chinchorro Bank Atoll Mexico was not looking good.

That night was no fun. The waves and wind increased and we started to see large clouds of pink on the radar indicating squalls were coming from the East in our direction. A sail boat can’t really out run the weather but you can sometimes repostion so the weather passes you by.

We were probably hit by at least three 30+ knot squalls with blinding rains. I think the waves were pretty big but you can’t see them at night until they crash into the boat. You could see the bow and running lights go underwater as the waves exploded across the boat. Jaime was very sea sick and stayed up on deck the entire night. I went below at midnight after my 9p-12a watch and ended up getting sea sick for the first time after being pinballed around while trying to use the head and get my bunk ready. After emptying my stomache I felt better and was able to get some rest.

The next morning conditions were still pretty bumpy but the rain stopped and the sun came out making us all feel a little better. Jaime was able to go below and get some much needed sleep. By 2pm we made it to Chinchorro Bank anchored in relative calm conditions.

7/02/08
We were boarded by the Mexican Navy. They checked our documentation and did a brief inspection. Thankfully they didn’t question that we had checked out of Belize over a week ago (it’s no fun being an illegal alien).

Finally some good sailing conditions. The swell was still good sized but not choppy and we picked up the current allowing us to make good time. We left around 10am and arrived the following morning at 2:30am in Cozumel. Cozumel looked like Las Vegas at night compared with relatively undeveloped Belize. We anchored for the night and then left for Isla Mujeres. Good conditions again but it looks like Jaime well not be doing anymore offshore sailing as she is still getting dizzy. So I think that is about it for now. Cpt. Jim is out getting our passport stamped and bribing petty bureaucrats to allow us in the country. More updates to come.

We’ve been getting hit by squalls lately generated by tropical waves (low pressure systems) with 35 knot winds and torrential rains. The good news is that we filled our water tank with fresh rainwater. The bad news is that we have some cabin fever setting in and I’m wondering when we will all go mad and eat each other. Jaime suggests that we might take out Cpt. Jim first. I’m sleeping with the machete. OK it’s not that bad and I can think of worst places to be stuck.

Hopefully the weather calms down and we can make the jump up North to Mexico and start thinking about crossing the gulf. Belize has no Walmarts, McDonalds, Costcos or any other kind of chain stores so sometimes it’s hard to find things. Cancun has it all so it’s starting to sound like the promised land for provising the boat.

We found a bar with free Wifi. Well I better let Jaime have the laptop. I’m not sure where I put the machete and she might have it…

Weather is still here so I ended up doing some diving with Frenchie’s in Caye Caulker. We did two dives on the South pass of the reef about 80 feet max. The dive master was entertaining and they seemed like a good operation so I signed on for a trip to the Blue Hole the next day.

Conditions were a bit rough in the open ocean on the motor over to Lighthouse Reef and the Blue Hole. The boat was covered, had hard fiberglass seats and three 200 HP outboards that can move it at 30 knots (standard Belizean water taxi)

We passed through Turneffe Reef on the Northern end and got a twenty minute reprieve from the pounding. Belize has three of the four Atolls in the western hemisphere. Glovers, Turneffe and Lighthouse. The atolls were formed by coral growing on steep limestone plateaus outside of the barrier reef and enclose a central lagoon. Once you leave the barrier reef the water drops off to a deep blue. The atolls are hard to see until you get very close. We sailed to Glovers last May and enjoyed spectacular diving and snorkeling.

Approaching Lighthouse Reef we could see breaking waves. Once inside the swell calmed down and the captain pushed to full throttle clearing the intricate coral maze by what seemed like inches and headed for the Blue Hole.The Blue Hole is not readily apparent from the surface but once we tied up to the mooring I went on top of the boat and could easily make out the dark blue center framed by shalllow ring of white sand and coral and a aquamarine colored water beyond. Wow! Time to suit up and splash like my man Jacques Cousteau.

Our group entered the water and swam out 20 yards to a sandy ledge. We dropped 50 feet down to the ledge and continued down as fast as we could equalize our ears. Massive limestone caverns start at 100 feet. We leveled off at 130 feet and entered the caverns swimming around huge stalactites. The bottom of the cavern was 165 feet and then drops off to over 450 feet in the center. I went down to around 140 feet before redlining the gauge I borrowed from Cpt. Jim. My crazy dive master came grabbed my fin and did some wacky underwater Belizean goblin laugh and then smacked my hand congratulating me on making it down to the famous site. I almost thought he was narced as he did some Kung Fu fighting moves with his other dive master and pretended to want to drop down in the center. Our 8 minutes at depth ended quickly and we made our way up slowly as reef sharks and fish swam in from the gloomy depths.

Awesome dive. For the naysayers who call the dive overrated I would say try using some mask defog. Surreal. Other worldly. Glad I got the chance to do it.

The next two dives were off of Half Moon Caye. Many Cayes in Belize have looked like Gilligan’s Island to us but this is the prototype. A beautiful 42 acre palm tree covered crescent shape island fringed by white sand beaches with spectacular white sand beaches bands of coral and aquamarine and blue water.

We left Caye Caulker on 6/18 and headed to Ambergris Caye. When we arrived at AC in the afternoon we found La Isla Bonita not so much Bonita as bonkers. The anchorage was bombarded by jet skis, dive boats, and water taxis coming and going at full throttle. When did they get jet skis??? Landing on shore we found people hawking time shares and a much more developed island than our last visit. Call some place paradise kiss it goodbye as the Eagles once sang.

We checked out of the country the next day but Capt. Jim didn’t like the weather conditions for heading North so we ended up heading back to our quiet cozy anchorage at Caye Caulker. No jet skis and time shares - hmm… maybe there’s a ground floor opportunity here? OK shoot me now.

We left Belize City Sunday and headed for Caye Caulker. It’s a very laid back place and we’re enjoying the pace after a few days in Belize City.

Sunday was the start of lobster seasons and the local boats are bringing back a lot of bugs. We have caught a few via the sling but Jaime is still complaining about the lack of fish. Next time we need to bring a large spear gun because you have to shoot fish point blank with the sling and they too smart to let white guys sneak up on them with a spear. Capt. Jim is still hoping for the fish and lobster with a death wish.

Jaime and I took the bus to the Belize Zoo today. It seems to be well run and we liked the compact size since we tend to skim through museums and zoos eschewing the long winded tours.

Tapir trying to sniff my lens.
 

Cute Cotamundi looked like he wanted to escape with us.

The zoo features hand painted signs with funny inscriptions

Cpt. Jim and I took the bus into Belize City today for some boat supplies and food. The price was right at $2 each round trip for four different buses (old American school buses). If you have heard anything about Belize City I’m sure it has all been bad and no doubt it can be a pretty rough place. I would definitely not want to be in some of the places we were at today during the night but I could say the same thing of many neighborhoods in New York or LA.

We located what we needed - more or less - and are ready to untie lines and head for Caye Caulker tomorrow.

We finally left Placencia on 6/7. We were starting to think that Placencia had some kind of vortex sucking us in and not letting us leave. Capt. Jim couldn’t believe the number of days that we had been tied up at the marina when he asked me. No question we will be back some day but we really had to go.

First stop was Laughing Bird Caye National Park. We took a mooring and did some snorkeling. The coral and aquatic life were incredible.

We spent the night at a nearby caye but the anchorage was very rolly and the wind blew a steady 18 knots all night with thunder and lightning. The rolling motion makes sleeping difficult.

The next morning we left for Garbutt Caye. Garbutt Caye is a very good anchorage with good holding, protection from most wind direction and a character named Harry who has proclaimed himself the Mayor of Garbutt Caye. Capt. Jim met him a few years ago and makes a point to bring the mayor a small gift of canned food, books, and liquor. The mayor has reciprocated with fish and lobster. This year we brought him a bottle of Whiskey from Guatemala… well to be honest it was 2% whiskey and 98% agricultural distillates according to the bottle. Hmm… I wonder if that was why we didn’t get any lobster or fish this time?

After two restful nights at Garbutt we headed to Cucumber Beach Marina in Belize City. It’s actually a few miles south of Belize City and features shotgun totting guards at night so it’s a safe place. The sailing was great coming up with beam winds to 20 knots and a mild chop pushing us North. Tomorrow we will get some much needed produce and supplies and then head for Caye Caulker.

The locals must have sacrificed enough chickens to the Mayan rain god because the sun finally came out yesterday. Jaime is starting to get into living on Island Time and is hopefully becoming less appetizing to bugs - Jim and I got there a while ago which he attributes to taking garlic pills but I think might have something to do with laxer grooming habits on the boat.

Miss Tracey the bartender brought over some local fisherman to show us how to catch fish. They were successful but our luck was not as good today.

Still here in Placencia, Belize.  Tropical Depression Arthur passed through bringing lots of rain and high winds. We recorded 40 knots on the instruments but did fine tied up to the new docks they are building for the Placencia Yacht Club There’s a song called “Just Another Gringo in Belize” that mentions the gringo buying a mudhole that this places reminds me of. The pilings for the pier and the condos they are building need to be sunk 32 feet into the ground/mud. The soil looks to be full of sea shells so that should tell the potential owner something…

Jaime is flying in tomorrow. Hopefully the boat will look OK for her arrival. We havent been running the AC so it’s a bit clammy inside with all the rain. No worries though dear Capt. Jim will fire up the AC if you start crying.

I think with all this rain I might be in a bit of a tropical depression myself. I’m at the Purple Space Monkey Cafe taking advantage of their free Wifi. The good thing about service in Belize restaurants is that they wont bother you asking if you want anything so I guess I can sit here and not buy anything. This is first time I’ve been off the boat and dock so everything seems to be moving slightly and it’s a bit hot without the sea breeze.

I’ve uploaded more pics to my Flickr page- http://www.flickr.com/photos/sichler/ - if anyone wants to take a look. Drop me an email at my yahoo address - ssichler - I would love to hear from people.